Ride Day 12 – Auxerre to Dornecy- 77 km

A quick few pics of Auxerre. Probably the nicest city we’ve stayed in overall. No tourist shops, just a well run, quiet city. Beautiful streets, wonderful architecture and five minutes and you are alongside the river with total peace and quiet. topped off last night with a superb dinner. At this rate we will be twice the size when we return – food too good and rides too flat.

We met a couple from Melbourne who had bought a barge from Holland (109 year old cheese transport vessel). They keep it in Europe on a canal somewhere and spend their summers travelling the rivers. They were very disparaging about what they called “Tupperware Boats” – hire vessels that you get a quick 20 minute lesson and then let loose. They seemed to have it sorted on where to park for free. Interesting idea but I think we will stick to the bikes – boats are too slow.

Today’s route was long but flat – the little spikes are the bridges, of which there were many on mostly canal and the Yonne. Two spikes would be an extravagance so 94 makes us extremely spoilt. Probably the best ride to date. Good temperature. The only problem is that despite a super duper map of the area with coffee shops and cafes and restaurants marked, none really existed. Some were closed, others shut down. Found a camp site at around 40km for a sandwich and coffee. The search was extensive! I’m not sure this guy gave Tony good or bad advice on where to look.

Still looking for coffee…

We startled some wildlife – a family of baby mice ran all over the path and we managed to avoid squashing any. A deer was out of the forest eating the grass on the canal banks. Duncan thought it was a dog but when she heard us, she shot back into the forest.

Turned up at our basic hotel but the dinner prepared was simply enormous and quite delicious. Settling in to the routine now, just need to cut back on the food.

Other than the lack of amenities, the whole area is gorgeous. The small hamlets, farms and villages are well kept and with no new houses. Pretty much as they have been for hundreds of years. If we win Lotto we will buy one of these below!

Published by Duncan & Julie

Australians who cycle in Europe. https://cyclefarotosansebastian.wordpress.com/ https://stmalo2carcassonne.wordpress.com/

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